ICE CLIMBING INFORMATION ARTICLES

Ice Climbing Belay Devices - Types

Belay Devices are mechanical devices used in controlling the rope when Belaying. Usually, Belay Devices have two holes that are used for Belaying or Rappelling depending on the number of holes you will utilize.

One can choose from different Climbing Belay Devices available in the market today. In this section, be acquainted with the various types which are designed to suit different purposes.

Tubular
The tubular type is the most commonly used Belay Device. Lightweight, compact, and easy to use, the tubular belay device has two holes in which the Climbing Rope passes through. Moreover, it works well with both single and double ropes and is suitable for almost any kind of climbing. However, some climbers find this type slow for Rappelling.

Figure 8 Belay Device

Figure 8
Shaped like the number eight, the Figure 8 type is used in top-rope climbing. This Belay Device is usually made of aluminum and is effective when used in Belaying and Rappelling. It also works well as a descender. However, a Figure 8 may be difficult to use since it allows twisting of the rope when it passes the holes.

Belay Plate/Sticht Plate Belay Device

Belay Plate/Sticht Plate
This type of Belay Device works well with double ropes. However, it is not very popular nowadays because of the development of more designs. The Belay Plate or Sticht Plate is easy to use and has a flat metal plate or disk, usually with two holes.

Auto-Locking
This type is easy to use and works like a car seat belt. When rapid force is applied, this Belay Device locks down the rope. As the name implies, an Auto-Locking Belay Device auto-locks itself in case of a fall. The belayer does not have to exert too much effort in stopping a fall. Word of caution: this type does not usually work with icy or wet ropes.

There are various types and designs of Belay Devices available in the market today. Get familiar with their features, purposes, advantages, and drawbacks so that you will know what suits your needs when ice climbing.