Ice Climbing Techniques – Belaying
In Ice Climbing, you are given the choice to use either running belays or fixed belays. Consequently, you need to learn some boot/ice-screw belay techniques. There are certain factors that you need to consider when locating the correct place to position the belay.
Determine the quality of the ice to guarantee maximum anchor strength. Likewise, you also need to consider the position of the belay. Bear in mind objective dangers like falling rocks or ice and the line of ascent.
Running Belays
Running belay is another way for a team to move faster when storms or avalanches arise. It can also be useful on gentle to moderate terrain where danger of falling is minimal.
A running belay on ice is created very much the same as a running belay on rock or snow. Climbers will move at the same time. The leader places protection as they climb and clips the rope through it; the follower removes the protection. The idea is to keep at least two points of protection between them at all times to hold the rope in case of a fall. The protection is usually spaced so that as the leader makes each new placement, the follower is removing the bottom one.
Fixed Belays
Just like in Rock Climbing or Snowboarding, you will need a belayer, belay anchor and points of protection in fixed belays on ice. A belay anchor is used as a sole attachment to the cliff face to support a belay or toprope. In Ice Climbing, the standard set-up of the anchor makes use of two ice screws.
All you need to do is place the screw in the ice in front of you at about waist to chest level. Then, clip in a carabiner and tie into it with the climbing rope. Unclip from the hand tool that was placed as temporary anchor and replant that tool above and to the outside of the screw. Clip the tool to the screw. Tell our belayer that you are off belay.
After doing so, you can now place the next ice screw. Place it about 2 or 3 feet higher and to the opposite side of the first screw. Extend your rope from the first to the second crew and tie it.
Belay Methods
Depending on what you are used to, there are many choices in which anchor set-up you can use.
The use of a hip belay results in a slow stop to a fall but with less force on the anchor and intermediate points. On the other hand, belay devices and Munter Hitch results to stopping a fall faster but with more force on the anchor and intermediate points.
Boot/Ice-Screw Belay
The boot/ice-screw belay is very useful for flat or gentle ice slopes.
The ice screws should be positioned vertically one above the other like that of an acute angle. Place screw gate carabiners into the ice screw eyelets and connect these with a sling. It must have two overhand knots tied close to the V-point of the belay.
Twist the upper section of the sling and place screw gate carabiner into this loop. Use this carabiner for your belay.
Ice Climbs are distinctly more demanding than rock climbs a crag equipped with bolts and abseil chains.
A good belay stance should be on compact ice. It should be at the edge of the icefall and off center compared to the following pitch to avoid falling ice from the lead climber.
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