Ice Climbing Techniques - Rope Systems

Single Rope Systems

• This Rope System is adequate on single and multipitch routes whereby the protection is in one straight line. Therefore, this rope system is very often used on sport routes, where the bolts are placed in a straight line or any other routes whereby the protection can be placed in a straight line.
  
  

  

  If the protection is not in a straight line, but for example has more of a zigzag pattern, then there will be more "rope drag". Rope drag is the amount of friction the rope causes when running through the Quickdraws/runners/extenders.
  
  
• Rope Drag on a Single Rope System can be minimized by using longer extenders as these will make the line "straighter". However, if you are climbing routes that are not straightforward like on traditional climbing routes where one has to place the protection where it occurs, a Double Rope System could be more practical.


• When using a Single Rope System, note that one can only achieve a maximum abseil of half a rope length. So if you are using a 60-metre rope with a single rope system, then you can only abseil 30 metres.


• All rope manufacturers are obliged by the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) to indicate if the rope is suitable for a Single Rope System, Double Rope System, or a Twin Rope System. As a rule of thumb, most ropes with a thickness of 10-11 mm are Single Ropes.


• Using a Single Rope System is cheaper than the Double or Twin Rope System, but less durable as the rope drag is considerable.

Double Rope Systems

• With this system, one can reduce or entirely cut out any rope drag. This is a major advantage as it contributes to the safety of the system.


• Aside from Ice Climbing, this is also often used in Traditional Rock Climbing and Mountaineering.


• The two Double Ropes are more practical to carry. The load of the two ropes can be divided equally between two persons.


• When the two double ropes are tied together, then one can abseil the full rope length as opposed to a half rope length in a Single Rope System.


• Compared to the Single Rope System, the Double Rope System is safer and more durable.


• Double Ropes are normally between 8-9 mm.


• The only downside of the Double Rope System is that it is more costly than a Single Rope System. But the difference is negligible if the safety factor is considered.

Twin Rope Systems

• With the Twin Rope System, one uses two Twin Ropes in a Single Rope System. This means that the two Twin Ropes will both go through each point of protection.


• With the Twin Rope System, one might have rope drag as in a Single Rope System.


• As in the Double Rope System, a full rope length abseil can be made possible by tying the two Twin Ropes together.


• Twin Ropes are typically between 7-8 mm.


• Because of the number of ropes used in this system, it is more costly than a Single Rope System although the former is definitely safer than the latter.